Friday, 25 January 2013


The slider has become a forgotten method. Is it because the majority of fisheries just don’t have the depths to warrant its use, or could it be people just don’t know how to set it up, or when to use it?

Why would you use the slider? 

Some venues have rules that state that float only methods are allowed. This then rules out fishing a bomb or feeder. In venues that are 10 feet deep and over, standard waggler fishing is not really a viable option. This is due to casting difficulties, particularly if you are using a short rod, plus the likelihood of getting tangles is really high due to the long tail line. 

The solution is the slider, this is due to the float not been locked in position like a normal waggler set up. This is where the name ‘slider’ comes from.

Simple Rules

There are a couple of simple rules to follow to get maximum efficiency from your kit. 

  • First of all the rod should have suitable line guides (eyes), if these are too small, friction will be caused on the cast - This is caused by the stop knot (which will be explained later)
  • The float needs a heavy shot capacity 3AAA should be the minimum - The weight of the shot needs to be able to drag line from the reel (which will also be explained later)
  • When you are setting up this rig, all the shots are set below the float, this should be enough to cock the float to its final position. Personally I set it up as follows:

The main bulk is set at 2 feet from the hook. If you require shot of different sizes then it should taper with the smallest shot closest to the hook. This aids casting and helps to prevent the rig wrapping over the float. Then I equally space 2 dropper shot between the bulk and hook. The final single shot is placed 11/2 feet above the bulk. This is where the float sits on the cast. If you let the float sit on the bulk for the cast, 5 times out of 10 when you do cast it will tangle up....why? I don’t know,but the single shot seems to prevent this! 

The Stop Knot

The next job is to tie the stop knot, which prevents the float going too far up the line. Firstly I like to place the hook on the bottom line guide and then tension the reel line. This makes it easier to tie the stop knot. You will need a length of line approximately 1 foot in length. This should be a slightly larger diameter than the reel line. The diagrams opposite show you how the knot should be tied.

Once the knot has been tied the two tag ends need trimming back so that each one is roughly an inch long. This should be enough to stop the knot pulling through the swivel loop of the float, where the knot is positioned will depend entirely on the depth you are fishing in.

Plumbing up
To plumb up, firstly you need to pick a marker on the far bank, so that you will be in the same area each cast. Then attach the plummet and cast to desired area, the bail arm on the reel is to remain open. 

The weight will pull the line through the float until stop knot hits the float. If it is set right the float will cock to it weighted resting position. If it is not set deep enough the float will sink, if it is set too deep the float will either float flat on the surface or stick right up in the water. It is just a matter of sliding the stop knot up or down to the required position.

Once you are set, place the hook on the bottom line guide, then mark the rod with a Chinograph pencil or some Tipex where the stop knot falls. This will stop you having to re plumb up if the knot moves. 


When you cast when you do start fishing, just before the float hits the water you need to feather the reel line. What I mean by this is you use your finger to slow the line coming off the reel. This ensures that the rig lay’s out in a straight line, which again prevents tangles and it also makes sure the rig falls through the water correctly. 

Once the rig has hit the water let the line peel freely from the reel until the float cocks to its final position. It is now time to close the bail arm and take in any slack line, ready for striking at a bite. 

Trouble Shooting

If your stop knot is slipping too regularly, there is solution. Simply tie a second stop knot reel side of your original knot. Then it is just a matter of slipping the new knot up tightly to the original knot. This should prevent any further movement.

Putting The Slider Into practice

In putting the slider into practice today, I have drawn peg 15 on the main lake at Newbridge Lakes, which is a venue I know reasonably well. 

Plumbing up

I have roughly 20 feet of water in front of me, plumbing up is going to be my first job; I have picked a marker on the far bank, which is a tree on its own. The secret to plumbing up accurately on the slider is to plumb up with the float under shotted. I need to move the stop knot and position it so the float appears to be in its final shotted position. This ensures that I am bang on the bottom. The last job is to put the final shot on, and I’m ready to go!

Preparing The Swim

I start the match on the feeder, which gives me plenty of time to prime the slider swim. Today I’m doing this with loose fed maggots; fortunately I have a back wind today, so I can fish at around 25 meters comfortably. 

After 30 minutes on the feeder its slider time; I cast well beyond the area I am going to fish and reel the float into the swim, I then open the bail arm and let the line out from the reel until the float sits into position. A bite comes almost instantly, producing a small roach; even though you use heavy floats, this method still gives you ultimate sensitivity for instant bite detection!

I end up with roughly 4lb in weight, but I have probably caught approx 50 - 60 fish. 

  • On the strike I find it best to strike straight up
  • Try to avoid letting the line go slack, as this usually results in lost fish.

Give it a go and see how it works for you, below are just a few of the venues that I recommend to try out this technique: