The slider has become a forgotten method. Is it because the majority of fisheries just don’t have the depths to warrant its use, or could it be people just don’t know how to set it up, or when to use it?
Why would you use the slider?
Some venues have rules that state that float only methods are allowed. This then rules out fishing a bomb or feeder. In venues that are 10 feet deep and over, standard waggler fishing is not really a viable option. This is due to casting difficulties, particularly if you are using a short rod, plus the likelihood of getting tangles is really high due to the long tail line.
The solution is the slider, this is due to the float not been locked in position like a normal waggler set up. This is where the name ‘slider’ comes from.
Simple Rules
There are a couple of simple rules to follow to get maximum efficiency from your kit.
- First of all the rod should have suitable line guides (eyes), if these are too small, friction will be caused on the cast - This is caused by the stop knot (which will be explained later)
- The float needs a heavy shot capacity 3AAA should be the minimum - The weight of the shot needs to be able to drag line from the reel (which will also be explained later)
- When you are setting up this rig, all the shots are set below the float, this should be enough to cock the float to its final position. Personally I set it up as follows:
The main bulk is set at 2 feet from the hook. If you require shot of different sizes then it should taper with the smallest shot closest to the hook. This aids casting and helps to prevent the rig wrapping over the float. Then I equally space 2 dropper shot between the bulk and hook. The final single shot is placed 11/2 feet above the bulk. This is where the float sits on the cast. If you let the float sit on the bulk for the cast, 5 times out of 10 when you do cast it will tangle up....why? I don’t know,but the single shot seems to prevent this!
The Stop Knot
The next job is to tie the stop knot, which prevents the float going too far up the line. Firstly I like to place the hook on the bottom line guide and then tension the reel line. This makes it easier to tie the stop knot. You will need a length of line approximately 1 foot in length. This should be a slightly larger diameter than the reel line. The diagrams opposite show you how the knot should be tied.
Once the knot has been tied the two tag ends need trimming back so that each one is roughly an inch long. This should be enough to stop the knot pulling through the swivel loop of the float, where the knot is positioned will depend entirely on the depth you are fishing in.
Plumbing up
To plumb up, firstly you need to pick a marker on the far bank, so that you will be in the same area each cast. Then attach the plummet and cast to desired area, the bail arm on the reel is to remain open.
To plumb up, firstly you need to pick a marker on the far bank, so that you will be in the same area each cast. Then attach the plummet and cast to desired area, the bail arm on the reel is to remain open.